From Horse Camp we then followed around the stony beach to
A quick walk around Gabutu and past
a blog for those whom wander around the POM bush...
From Horse Camp we then followed around the stony beach to
A quick walk around Gabutu and past
From the dizzy heights of the gun emplacement looking over the late Sir Billy Skate’s old residence we continued towards the
A flat road walk back saw us finally reach the end of our journey. A good hot, hard walk but full of good views of Moresby,
The overnight rain had made Varirata quite greasy and the odd tree root and rock caused the walking to be cautious in some sections of the track. We firstly walked out to the bottom lookout, and then headed in a anti-clockwise direction, we followed the boundary of the park. Upon reaching the front gate, we then ducked back into the forest and completed the circuit track. This was my first time along the circuit track and it was a great little loop despite the numerous trees which had fallen across its path.
We bombed along and covered the 10kms in 4 hours, reasonably good going considering the slipperiness of some sections where the pace dropped to a crawl. Literally.
My legs were feeling okay after the two big walks over the weekend, where I covered nearly 23kms in around 9 hours. Bring on Kokoda.
Arriving at Ower’s Corner, it was a veritable market place with the local Koiari people selling all sorts to the EE crew coming of the track. PNG Treking Adventures were down at Goldie and there were one or two teams just starting, so the grounds at Ower’s were pretty busy. One of our crew had suffered a bit with some Malaria, so he volunteered to look after the gear back at the carpark including our refreshments for our return.
I led the charge down the first steep descent from Ower’s waiting for the young lads to take over, and as soon as there was a gap they were off. You could tell that they were now Moresby Boys as their runners didn’t offer as much grip as they were going arse up on a few occasions. I think our Jimi girl was the only one to stay upright despite busting a thong on the mud of Imita.
We reached Goldie pretty quickly and thankfully I thought as my legs were not enjoying the shaking of descending for so long, give me a climb I cried. At Goldie, we waited for the Victorian Police Crew and their team who looked like they were having a good time although one or two Coppers looked worst for wear, especially the one with the broken bone in her hand. We then crossed the river and started the climb up and over to Uberi Creek.
It was a great day and the track was dry. Until we got to the slopes of the Golden Staircase and Imita Ridge, then it got muddy, slippery, sticky and a whole world of fun. The barefoot toes scraping the Red Clay of Sogeri looked more like the hands of Trekkers had clawed their way up the maddening steep slopes. The young lads in their runners, were continuing to run up each climb whilst us old guys plodded on behind. After 2H 40m, we made it to the top of Imita, we rested a while, chatted to a group of trekkers which we had passed at Uberi, and then we descended back down towards Uberi, and
A brief rest at Uberi, where the lads practiced their latest breakdancing moves and gymnastics, and where we made friends with “Brownie” or “Snoopsie” the Dog who decided to follow us back to Ower’s Corner, we then made our way down to the Goldie River where once the Jimi girl and GF departed for the climb back up to Ower’s, all the lads went “as nating” and had a wash in the cool mountain stream.
Meanwhile, the rest of us were starting the big push up the final climb, and the 3pm rain started to fall. Concern about getting the transport out of Ower’s when the track was wet, meant we had to hurry up a little. Soon, the freshly washed and cleaned lads raced past us and ran up to the carpark. The rest of us made our way step by step. I will admit that the last section in the Kunai grass which is normally unbearable was okay with the misty rain falling. When the sun is out, it is brutal.
What a fantastic day, around 13kms in length and about 5 hours in walking time. Good times… good times.
There was a two hour walk there and back in Kunai grass and lowland sclerophyll forest but this added to the enjoyment as we negotiated a few stream crossings on route to our destination. And this was despite a few issues regarding land owners and the original track we were planning on following, but a lesson learned for next time.
The young students from the local High School acted as our guides and lead us into temptation before negotiations lead us away from the Lion’s Den and onto a path more prosperous. The amount of trekkers was huge with over 30 of us in total (including guides) trekking to our final destination; the Kiri kati falls. What a gorgeous location so close to town and really should be zoned as a National Park by the powers that be, if only such infrastructure existed…
Those of us with new walking boots for the Kokoda Track were able to test out the waterproofness, those of us with new digital cameras were able to test out their new equipment. Especially with the bird life on route to the waterfall and certainly the butterflies that flew around the falls themselves.
The POM bushwalkers arrived at Varirata on a pleasant Sunday morning with some cloud cover and cool temperatures. The freshly conceived plan was to circumnavigate the Park in a clockwise direction. We started out all keen as Mustard as we left the Park in order to find the re-entry point to our lap.
It wasn’t long into the walk where it was discovered that footwear was important as was trekking fitness, yet we all supported each other and survived to tell the tale. The first leg of the journey is a comfortable descent to a creek in which we rested up briefly. The dry season was well underway and the track surface was relatively dry.
From the creek, we headed up into the clouds and discovered a bit of rock scaling and a fairly steep technical ascent, before heading ever upwards towards Gare’s Lookout. From here it was decided to break up the group as one team would continue along the Boundary track and the others would descend back down to the team vehicles.
I chose to guide the crew back to the cars and it was here that we would head along the flatter part of the course to head off the rest of the walkers. We rejoined all together again, and returned to the cars.
About 7-8kms in travel meant for a good hit out for all concerned.
The Second Journey
A week later, around lunchtime, it was decided that a small group of Kokoda aspirees would head back to Varirata for a quick lap of the lookouts. Hastily we gathered up everything and headed east into the Sogeri plateau. At Varirata, we motored around the lookouts, firstly heading along the 30minute then left up to Gare’s and then back down to the vehicles.
The track was dry, yet there proliferated many fungi and again the cloud was heavy in the air.
A quick 6km loop of the track was a good tonic for a lazy Sunday arvo.
The Third Journey; Remembrance Day.
Remembrance Day fell on the happiest Wednesday of them all this year, and it was decided to honour the diggers by recreating our own little Kokoda by traversing the mud of the nearby Owen Stanleys and what better place then Varirata.
The Rangers of the Park must have known that a PNG MP was visiting on this day as they left the gatepost abandoned and were busy on brushcutters cleaning up the bottom lookout. They did a good job of it, long overdue but the outcome was decent. Not quite Bomana standard, but who am I to judge.
Anywho, the walk was fantastic, we left the carpark, headed for the bottom lookout, and then followed the track all the way around the boundary back to the Park entrance some 7kms away. We then turned around and retraced our steps making for a 15km total with some seriously technical climbing and descending. The Eastern side of the Park was considerably slipperier and tougher than the usual lookout loop.
After 6 hours of bashing around, a few moments chatting to aforementioned MP, a discovery that another POM bushwalker had been spotted in the park and admiring the longevity of the POM twitchers we left the Park satisfulled of a good decent walk.
And we spotted a few more fungi.
After a good descent we found ourselves on the edge of a ledge overlooking the Goldie and beyond to Kokoda and the Owen Stanleys. We made her way to a waterhole below and rested up for a spell. Some of us indulged with a short swim in the fresh mountain stream, plunging our heads under the invigorating waterfall.
It was a good walk back up to the old plantation, a good steady, consistent walk, up a good steady, consistent grade.
Seeya CB, thanks for all the walks. Cheers!
The descent back down to Kokoda is nearly all downhill and also makes you feel that maybe the climb up wasn’t as hard as you originally thought. 5 hours will get you back to Kokoda and you’ll feel good for the workout. The hardest part is keeping your toes in one piece as blisters and bashed toe nails ensue.
If you start out early enough, then you will have some time to relax and get a few photos of the scenery, and you may even see the Cassowary at Hoy on the way down. Refuse a lift from your porter on the last creek, and remove your boots one last time. The cool water is bliss on your tired, weary feet.
Some 66 years ago, this section of the Kokoda Track saw some bloody fighting where many young Australian and Japanese Men lost their lives, to know that even on the 25th of May 2008, the life of another young Australian was stolen in the Owen Stanleys is a sober reminder of the role that nature plays out.
Vale.
I was hoping to walk up to Isurava from Kokoda in two days, resting overnight in Deniki but thanks to Airlines PNG, I started off from Kokoda one day behind schedule, but with enough time to get to Isurava in one attempt.
I left the airport at 0920 and headed to the Asian Stoa which is located near Muddy Creek (a misnomer if ever I heard one) and my porters and guides picked up some food for the few days we were to be in the
Soon after Kovello, you get to the small
After Hoy, the track weaves through Chokko fields and heads skywards up to Deniki, where there is a good rest stop and hopefully a 5 Kina brown fizzy drink to get you the caffeine you need for the rest of the day. Because from here, it is up, up and up to Isurava, through tree roots and mud and stones and small streams, the track continues its brutal climb.
And it gets darker and darker… and as the clouds lift up the
So, off we went acknowledging Tom’s wantoks with a casual “Beuna Kwaiai”; the Kiriwina phrase for “Good Afternoon”. Some of Tom’s female wantoks wanted to know where Tom was taking their “husband” and we all had a jolly good laugh…
Naturally, a waterfall is part of a water course so we followed a small stream up into the shade of the mountains, which was a welcome relief from the afternoon sun soaked Kunai grass fields where the track started. We crossed the stream continuously as we passed into cool jungle and the filter point of the town’s water supply. Some young workmen were repairing the filter inlet after recent flooding had closed the pick up point. We continued on up into the mountains.
By this stage we were walking in the creek/stream and our feet were wet yet cool. Eventually we made it to a waterfall which consisted of a tree that had fallen over and a small trickle of water. Anyway, the stream was fantastic to look at and it was a cool, peaceful location for a rest. Tom was right with the time to get there, just over the hour.
We then walked back down from where we came, our boots and feet getting wetter and wetter and we stopped to chat to some gardeners tending their crops and also join in a quick game of street soccer.
An enjoyable way to spend an evening.
Everyone is happy, Spot worker has a job, Spot is maintained and more and more people decide to visit, increasing employment in local community and just generally making everyone happy.
How tourism has worked for me in PNG… sometimes on the weekend, I am a tourist in my new found backyard. I would like something to do, so I ask around, and I discover that there is a good spot for a Sunday visit. I arrange to get there, I have a good time, I pay my entry fee and I pay some bloke who shows me around, and he takes me to the better parts of the spot. I’m impressed, I take a few photos and I show them to my friends, who ask me to take them to the spot.
We all arrange to get there, we all pay our entry fee, we all have a good time, and we all convince our friends that it is well worth the effort to get there. And they do.
Then one day we all show up, and as we are leaving, the guy who we pay entry fee to stops us and says that he hears that we have been taking photos of the scenery some two months prior. We say “Of Course! It’s a beautiful spot and we want our friends to be inspired and visit!” And he says, sorry but my boss says you must pay K250.00 because you used a camera. Unbelievable! This extortion is shooting tourism in its own foot.
Over the last two years I have probably introduced this spot to around 50 people, who have all paid their entry fee, and quite possibly have visited on more than one occasion, and quite possibly have used the services of the local crew to help find the better parts of the spot and have all had a good time. Perhaps over K1000.00 has entered the spot’s coffers through my direct and indirect involvement, yet someone wants more, someone is greedy and someone is stupid.
For shame Tourism PNG, this is a bitter day.
It was the first time that any of us had walked the hills behind March Girls at Gaire and I don’t think it will be the last. The local community although sparse were friendly and we all had a good day. We started off parking at the March Girls and then we made contact with a local family who allowed their son to be our guide and show us the hills behind his house.
The first climb was pretty solid and had everyone resting at the top to catch our breath, except our guide and his dog that were keen to press on. So on we went and the views at the top were fantastic, in one direction we could see Mt Diamond and the cliffs of Varirata behind. Towards the
There was quite a variety of terrain for us to wander through, from open grasslands to closed in woodlands, and the steepness of the track ranged from undulating to very steep. Our guide ensured us that there was a path, and there certainly was after we had all made it from one valley floor to the next.
Meanwhile, the Guide and his dog kept on going up and down the hills until we reached the combined Digicel/BMobile
But there were cold beverages to be found at March Girls if you knew the right way to ask and despite the 8-ball table having two number 10s we were all kept entertained.
An unsanctioned walk, the two of us were lucky enough to be taken to a
We have often thought about planning a POM Bushwalk to the wreck site but we thought we should scope it out first, and luckily we did. The Bushwalk to get there was sweet and comfortable, the scramble down and back up the cliff to get to the actual site was the hardest “bushwalking” I have done whilst in PNG, the fact that heavy rain fell while we were at the crash site and then had to climb the muddy, near vertical face whilst wet was only made possible with the help of our guides. In dry weather, the climb would not be as bad, but the rain made it treacherous.
The wreck itself is pretty awesome, it is the third wreck in PNG that I have walked to and although the plane exploded on impact with the cliff face, there is still quite a lot of interesting bits and pieces strewn all over the place, including some fairly massive machine guns and the aircraft’s radio instrument panel is still legible. The distinctive white star on a blue circle supported by the white and red ribbon of the
We found old compressor cylinders and some fairly large gauge bullets. The wreck is strewn over a large area and this is attributed to the terrain and the fact that some of the bombs on board detonated on impact. All 12 US crew lost their lives, and the first two attempts to retrieve the dead were unsuccessful as the terrain was too difficult to navigate.
Unfortunately I wouldn’t recommend this walk for a future POM Bushwalk as you really need your guides to outnumber the bushwalkers. The local guides can climb mountains in the mud whereas we amateurs find ourselves wallowing like stuck pigs. The area is sensitive to the local people as it is good hunting ground and the ecology is such that it could only really handle a few at a time. As it was, the two of us and our guides made a bit of a mess…
We were exhausted, we were muddied, there were cuts and bruises but it was a sombre feeling to stand amidst the loss of those 12 men.
I must apologise for my jellyfish effort this morning as I was sorely left wanting when it came to climbing the last series of hills. My current lack of fitness had me feeling pretty ordinary after we crossed that swampy creek.
After arriving at our destination we alighted from our vehicles and headed across the footbridge to the primary school. From here we climbed, and we climbed and we climbed. Before we reached the summit, two members of the party had to return back to base camp as the Sun was taking its toll. As there had been some recent rain, the Sun only drew the moisture out of the soil and the humidity levels were extreme.
But the views of the Rigo countryside were awesome from the top, the entire
Then it was up the hill that hurt, and not a tree in site.
After a short rest and a chat with the locals, we then headed on back to Moresby aka
And a stroll it was, and a very pleasant one at that. The drivers also got a bonus with some slippery mud in which to traverse which when the time came it caused the walking to be a greasy underfoot. Once we had parked the cars, we then sought out our guides who were buying enough buai for the duration of the walk and we then headed off straight into the strong breeze, past the school and off towards the tower. One of the local kids told me that the Government are going to build a school and a store underneath the tower.
After the tower we then checked out a couple of beach spots including the original location of the village and here we discovered that one of the walkers had taken a slight detour… When he caught back up with the group, he was followed by a large contingent of the local kids a la Pied Piper. This was okay as the senior guide was amongst them also.
From the original Village, we then trekked up the nearby hill to look at the World War 2 Gun emplacement, and nearby bunkers. And from here it was a stroll down the hill, along the muddy track and back to Boera. We checked out some of the locally made pottery and some purchases were made, and others decided to chat with the local kids as they were giving lessons in Motu.
And we all remained dry apart from some muddy boots. Good fun.
But a word of warning, this walk is harder than Lea Lea and on the last occasion we wandered around Boera, some of the newbies to the Bushwalking group found this walk tough. It is exposed to the sun, there is no shade and it is over rough and rocky terrain. The small climbs although brief are very steep and the ground underneath your feet will be loose rock. So please come prepared with solid footwear, a moderate level of fitness, plenty of water, a hat, sunscreen and insect repellent (the Mozzies might be out in the green grass)
Depending on the day, this can be a very social walk, especially if all the kids from Boera (pronounced Boy-Ra) Village skip Sunday school and opt to go walking with us.
Hardest Walk: The Death March that was Burn’s Peak. This walk was undertaken during the supposed cool of the dry season but Moresby put on a seriously hot day and all who completed the march were contemplating revisiting breakfast. The Imita Ridge walk was a contender only for those last few steps back up to Ower’s Corner. It was a dawdle before then.
Best Walk: I wasn’t part of it, but the first time we went to
Hardest Climb: Despite the nauseous climb(s) of Burn’s Peak, the toughest three individual climbs of the year would have to have been the last few steps back up to Ower’s Corner, the climb up the Pyramid and perhaps even the climb up Mt Erima a few weeks ago. It also seems that those climbs exposed to the full Moresby sun are those that caused the biggest problems.
Funniest Walk: Would have to have been the Varirata walk during the dry season when just a few hours before the walk, the skies had fallen on the track and it was wet and slippery. But the humour came in the amount of work our barefoot guides gave to those members of the group who were poorly shod for such slippery conditions. It’s funny until someone gets hurt, then it’s hilarious…
Lukim yu long 2008.
A good size group took part as we decided to walk the Varirata loop in a counter-clockwise direction. This is the first time I have traversed the track in this direction and it is noticeably easier than clockwise. We parked at the lower lookout of the three and then walked up and down the muddy track until we reached the highest lookout, with its spectacular views of
The birds and butterflies were abundant and at one stage, a Raggiana Bird of Paradise was spotted, but only by our guide… the rest of us could hear it though. There were other bugs and grubs out with leeches finding our walking boots a handy means of transport and a wallaby was spotted just as we entered the park.
An excellent way to end the year.